Monday, January 26, 2015

Post Trip Gear Review



Pack- ULA Circuit – This is a great pack.  It carried well and was comfortable.  The only negative I found was that the hip belt kept coming unclipped after I resupplied at Muir Trail Ranch.  I ended up having to reinforce it with a piece of string to keep if from popping open.  My best guess is that I had the pack overload, weight wise, for the 8 plus days to finish the trail.  If this continues I will simply change it out for a beefier one later.  I also developed a hole in the back mess pocket. I think this way due to setting it down against a rock.  You have to remember this is a light weight pack, and must be treated accordingly.  Set it down carefully.  I also had a damn squirrel chew a small hole in the in the hip belt pocket in no time what so ever, before I even began the trail.

Tent –GoLite Imogene II – I loved this tent, unfortunately GoLite is now out of business and this tent is no longer commercially.  You might be able to pick one up online
used.  The 2 person was great for 1 person, though it would be snug for two.

Sleeping bag – EMS Mountain Lite 20 – I ended up taking this bag because it compacted down better than my Marmot Sawtooth. It is an older bag and is probably only 30 degree bag but it did the job. After I got home the zipper almost immediately broke, so maybe I will make a quilt out of it.

Sleeping pad – Big Agnes Air CoreThis is a great pad, very comfortable.  I do not think I will ever go back to a closed cell inflatable, i.e. – Thermarest, pad ever again. The only negative about this pad is having to blow it up every night.  It probably took 2-3 minutes, or 37 breaths if I remember correctly.  I liked the fact that it is not a noisy bad. I slept near a couple of the Thermarest Neoair, and they seemed noisy to me and I was not sleeping on them.  It is not the lightest pad out there, but I will happily trade the extra weight for a good night’s sleep.

Hiking Poles – Black Diamond Trail   - Great poles. The flickocks are much better than the screw in type.  I only had to tighten locking mechanism once during the trek.

Stove – MSR Pocket Rocket – A good workhorse of a stove.  I only could not get it to light one morning, and I think that was due to a cold fuel canister, rather than the stove itself.  Next time I would start with the larger fuel canister, just to leave myself some wiggle room (my smaller one ran out the night before I resupplied at MTR). I think I only cooked 1 or 2 breakfast, and the remainder were dinners. If you wanted to take the smaller canister, replace it at Reds then again at MTR (they only had the larger sized canister for sale).

Bear Canister – BV 500 – I ended up switching to this from the Garcia about 2 weeks before I left.  I was originally concerned about being able to open it, as it seemed hard to push in the tabs.  With a little practice, and a small stick, this became a non-issue.  It also seemed to store more food than the Garcia, and I think it is a little lighter as well. Being see through it also made it easier to find what food I was looking for (I usually took out a day’s worth of food so I did not have to get into the canister during the day).

Water Purification – Sawyer Mini – I have mixed feelings about the Sawyer Mini.  It did the job and I did not get sick on the trail.  I made the mistake of not bringing the syringe to flush it with, but luckily I picked one up at MTR in the hiker box. I ended up flushing it every 2 days or so, just to keep the rate of flow up.  This is my only complaint about the filter, it was somewhat slow.  I also have the regular Sawyer Squeeze and would probably bring it next time instead.  A lot of the PCT hikers I saw had the mini attached directly to their smart water bottles.  I tried this for about half the trail.  It worked, but I like a faster flow rate of water into my mouth than what this provided.  The mini is a good filter, and you will not go wrong with it.  If I was hiking with another person and sharing weight I might go with the Platypus Gravity Filter.  It seemed pretty quick from the few times I saw one on the trail.

Bowl – Glade medium screw top – I liked this bowl but had to leave it at MTR due to a lack of space.  It was not a necessary but it kept my pot clean.  Also it was nice to be able to secure the top while my food rehydrated

SPOT - I brought this along for the folks at home, to let them know where I was when I was out of contract.  I would use it every night when I got into camp, then again in the morning to let them know that I was off and moving for the day.  I tried to remember to set it off at least once during each day as well.  From what I was told from the folks at home, it worked well, and they were happy to know that I was doing well.

Camera – Nikon AW100 –Took decent pictures and video. Overall I was not overly impressed with pictures once I got home at looked at them.  I am not sure if this is due to the camera or my use of it.  I filled up 1- 32gig memory card (about 19000 photos and hours video).  I brought along a bunch of extra cards, but ended up not needing them. I brought a total of 4 batteries.  I got about 2 days out of each one.  I was able to recharge at Reds and MTR.

Knife – Leatherman Style CS Multitool – This little multitool did the job.  I used it to open boxes at resupply, cut lucco tape for blisters.  I never really needed it for anything heavy duty.  I really debated bringing this lite of a knife but do not regret it.  I also liked the clip on it, which allowed me to clip it to my shoulder strap for easy access and kept me from losing it.

Headlamp – Black Diamond Storm – It was overkill, but never let me down.  I never night hiked, and only used it for small periods each day.  I loaded it up with Energizer Lithium batteries and never had to change them out.


Gators – Dirty Girls j – Do not argue, just go out and buy yourself a pair. These ROCK!!!!

Friday, January 23, 2015

Almost Home!

Tuesday, July 29
Post trip #1

It took me a while to fall asleep last night. I stayed up to watching a late night movie.  I did not fall asleep as effortlessly as I thought I would, despite the comfy bed.  I awoke at 4:40 a.m., 10 minutes before my wake up call.  I easily caught the early ESTA bus, for the 6 hour ride back to Reno.  As soon as I walked up to the bus stop I saw Karen who I had meet (with Don) at the Reno airport the day I flew in. Small world!  We sat together and talked about our experiences on the JMT. Also on the bus was the couple from Florida who inspired James and Z two pass push over Forester.  I told them I did not know if I should curse or thank them for that one!

I arrived in Reno about 30 minutes earlier than expected, so now I am sitting in the airport waiting for the flight to take me home to complete this journey.  I can’t wait to hug my boy!

Things I learned on the JTM

  • Karen and Cade are the most important part of my life.
  • I can achieve my goals if I set my mind to then and work towards them.
  • Do not touch (itch, scratch...) the face while hiking with poles in the hand -may result in a T.K.O.
  • Sometime you have to break the blister rules.
  • A dry set of clothes are a life saver on cold, wet days.
  • We are all family on the trail.
  • Be an inspiration to others, as others have been to me.
  • One step at a time and you will get to where you are going…. Eventually.




Victory!!!

Monday, July 28
Day 16
Crabtree Junction to Whitney Portal
~ 15 miles

“Of course, inside each one of us is the ambition to reach the summit, to realize that you are stronger than obstacles, that it is within your power to do something uncommon and indeed impossible for most people.”
~ Anatoli Boukreev

I made it! I succeed in hiking the John Muir Trail. I am proud of myself! I am a hiker man!
Sleep did not come easy last night. It took me an over an hour to finally get to sleep. Then I kept waking up. About 1:30 a.m. I woke and heard nearby campers breaking camp. My mind begin to turn. Should I get up and start hiking? I was already awake... I got out of the tent to relieve myself and the stars were out, with no signs of clouds. I just said I would go for it. With uncertain whether for the next couple days, this might be my only chance to make it to the summit.

I quickly packed up my gear and headed out. I always like night hiking, as it seems that I am on my in my own little bubble, defined by the headlights beam. It seems to make the time go by quickly. The other thing is, it seems to help with the uphills; when my world is reduced to 20 to 30 feet ahead, they do not seem so bad or so steep.

It took me about 90 minutes to reach the Guitar Lake area; 3 miles and 800 feet of elevation gain. When I reached Guitar Lake about 3 a.m. other hikers were just beginning to get on the trail. Soon as I left the lake, the trail started to climb for real. Even in the darkness of night my legs were feeling the ascent. The headlamps in front of me, gave me an indication of the steepness of things to come. I became fixated on the highest headlamp, until I realized that it had not moved in over 50 minutes. Oops it was a star.

As I worked my way upwards, actual headlamps would flicker in and out of my vision as I continued towards Whitney Junction.  I moved slowly. Moved when I could, and rested when I needed to. About 5:15 a.m. I shut off my headlight lamp and was able to get by with the coming of the dawn. Within 15 minutes I happily reached Whitney Junction, 2,000 feet above Guitar Lake. My original thought when I first started this hike was to take my pack all the way the summit, but as I reached Trail Junction, this thought was washed free from my mind.

I grab my rain jacket, 1 liter of water, snacks, phone, camera and the wag bag and took off for the summit. The first mile or so felt like I was literally flying. Free the pack I quickly contoured the ridge towards the summit. I could see clouds drifting in through breaks in the ridgeline. The last half-mile so the trail again began to climb up the “back of Whitney. I start to feel the elevation, and started to slow.


The first sign of the summit was the metal roof of the summit hut. As soon as I set my eyes on my energy level rose, and my body became fresh again as I hurried towards the hut and the metal sign on the rocks in front of the hut, marking the end of the JMT. Once my hand reached out to touch the sign I had completed the JMT, but not the hike!


Mt Whitney 14,505'

Luckily the weather had not moved into much, so I still had a nice view from the summit. I traded taking some pictures with another party, and made sure I got a couple with the JMT Facebook group’s “flag”. I still had one picture left to take: found a small area, shelter from others as best I could and stripped-down for my highest naked person photo. Yep just had to do it! Afterwards I signed the summit register before heading back down towards the junction.  16 days of the trail. And 40 minutes on the summit.

Not two minutes after leaving the summit the weather came in. It actually began to snow for several minutes, before turning into a little drizzle, which quickly stop. The return to Trail Junction went slower as I tired and the rocks became a little slick from the rain. Once back at the junction, I grudenling put my pack back on. The feeling of that effortless flight quickly disappeared.




One last climb remained, up to Trail Crest. Only100 feet elevation gain a little over quarter mile. Once up there I begin my final descent, starting with the 99 switchback from hell. Going down though they were not too bad, though I would not want to have to come up them. My left calf started to cramp up and remained cramped until the end of the hike.

Packs at Trail Crest


Like all of the descents of the passes during this trip this one was long, about 8 miles. It went by
99 switchbacks from hell
slow. I was low on energy and I was I was only functioning on only a half a foot Probar and three shot blocks, and had already been going for close to eight hours. I came to the nice patch of grass, next to the stream where others were resting and joined. A liter of water and a bag of almonds revived me a little.

As I carried on I was ready for level trail. Not necessarily a flat trail but one where the ground was flat and not rock covered. I could not get a good steady pace or stride going out because I was constantly having to adjust the width of each step. It made me tire easily.

Eventually I caught site of the road, the first one since Reds Meadow. It gave me hope, but I still moved slowly. Each switchback brought me closer and closer to the road. A final long downhill brought me the trail’s and. My eyes teared up last 30 yards or so.  One moment my feet were in dirt, the next step found my shoes were back on asphalt and my journey came of an end. I had done it!!!

I made my way to the portal sore, where ran I into Chris from the “teacher camp”. I had actually ran into him earlier in the day as I left Trail Junction for the summit. After dropping my pack off it was into the Portal Store for that much anticipated cheeseburger. It was good, but did not live up to its reputation in my opinion (Reds burger was much better). While sitting with Chris I met two ladies who had also just finished the trail (Mary and ??, both nurses). Somehow our paths never crossed out on the trail. Mary was nice enough to drive me into town and to the Dow Villa hotel.

The Dow is a great place to land at the trail. I got a room with a private bath and quickly slipped in the shower to wash off 16 days of grime. Later using their computer I was able to get my plane reservation changed to tomorrow; the $180 change fee was cheaper than three days in a hotel rooms. I have to catch a bus at 6:15 a.m. to get to Reno by 12:30. Hopefully everything will go as smoothly on the return as it did on the way out. By this time tomorrow I will be back home. I can't wait to give Cade and Karen the biggest hug ever. I know that I will not want to ever let them go!





Thursday, January 22, 2015

I am beat!

Sunday, July 23
Day 15
First tree stand below Forester Pass to Upper Crabtree meadow
~10 miles

The Road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow, if I can,
Pursuing it with eager feet,
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet.
And whither then? I cannot say.”
`J.R.R. Tolkien


I awoke up and got at 6 AM to answer the call nature and was greeted by flat gray sky. Not a good promise for the day. I crawled back in the sleeping bag for another half hour or so then finally arose a little after 7 a.m. Even after a good night’s sleep I awoke very tired today.

The last two days of big miles has caught up with my body today. It was all I could do to make it here this afternoon. Both legs felt like lead all day. I arrived into camp at 1 o'clock, put the temp tend up and the rested inside for two hours. I'm feeling a little better now, but not much stronger. I knew I had a relatively short day to make it to Guitar Lake today, 11 miles, so I slept in the took my time getting on the trail. I finally left camp at 8 a.m. Ten minutes later Z came up behind me, and another 10 minutes we had made James' camp. As all three of us headed out I told him not to wait for me as I already knew I was beat.



For some reason I thought this was going to be an easy day. Turns out I was wrong! It probably would not have been that bad if I was in my usual condition. The trail roller coastered today going up-and-down, up-and-down. I think I am finally to the point with only ups left to go to Whitney. I was surprised when I made it to the Big Horn Plateau. I did not think I would hit it so early in the day. It was not as large as it as I had imagined either. But it was fairly desolate. However, it did give me my first great view of Mount Whitney.

Mt Whitney


Cloud cover and a breeze kept hiking cool today. Everyone says we are in for scattered rain the next two days. Great! Hoping I can get a break in the weather and be able to summit Whitney. I will not risk it if the weather looks iffy. I briefly met up with James and Z right after the Plateau. They're planning to head to some other like a little higher up and off the trail from Guitar Lake, then will zero there tomorrow. This will probably last time that I actually get to see them on the trail.

After a quick break I continued along the roller coaster ride. Light rain sent me in the full raingear for the rest of my hiking day. Rain went from light sprinkles to a heavy drizzle. I even had small hail for about five minutes.

By this time my plan for the day begin to change. I was just hoping to make it to Crabtree Meadow and the rest the remainder of the day. Then I figured I'd leave for Whitney from here or just go up to Guitar Lake and summit on Tuesday. I'm still not sure what plan I will follow. It all depends on how my legs feel in the morning.



After my nap I crossed the street to check out the meadow area. There are nice campsites over there and seems to be a number of tents set up. There is even an open air toilet. That's right no squatting! Bring your own TP. I walked up to see the ranger’s cabin, absolutely beautiful. I ran into Don who I had met with Karen at the Reno airport at the cabin. Both summited Mt Whitney today. She went down to Lone Pine, and he turned around to do the trail again. When he left me he was still going to try and get another 5 miles in today. Wow! Go man go!

It was still only 4 o'clock and I toyed with the idea of packing up and hiking up to Guitar Lake. But the small hill I had to climb to get back to my tent, put an end to that thought. My legs were still beat. Instead I sorted through by bear can and prepped for dinner and food for tomorrow. I still have food left for one extra day if I decide not to go past Guitar Lake tomorrow. The weather will determine what I do, along with my legs. I am hoping that today's short day will give them a break; they need to feel better tomorrow. I also heard that there is great fishing at Guitar Lake.



Evening -

I just got back from visiting the “luxury” toilet and into the tent when the rain started. Heavier than earlier. Maybe it will rain itself out tonight. I can only hope. The wind has also picked up a bit too, and the temperature feels like it is dropped 5 to 10°. Looks like I am in for the night. Maybe I will treat myself to a song or two on the iPhone before turning in for the night. My watch is set for 5 a.m. Let's hope the weather is good!


Wednesday, January 21, 2015

I am a Hiker Man!!

Saturday, July 26
Day 14
Middle Rae Lake to first tree stand below Forster Pass
18 miles

 "When I got tired, I slept. When I got hungry, I ate. When I had to go, you know, I went."
~ Forrest Gump



First off the only thing that matters today is I got to talk to Karen and Cade and they are both doing great! In fact they' were going to get ice cream with grandma and grandpa when I called, not something I want to hear about miles from civilization. Their voices brought great relief. A giant fear has been lifted off me it made this huge day worth it!
 
Middle Rae Lake

The plan at the start of the day was to get over Glenn Pass, then push on to Bubbs Creek, to set up for the Big Daddy of passes tomorrow. If only I would have known what was actually to come, maybe I would have not gotten out of the sleeping bag this morning.  I left camp just before James and Z to try to get ahead of them as they are much faster hikers than I am. Today's hike started off gentle as I worked my way past Middle Rae Lake and on up past Upper Rae as well.  Expanding circles dotted the surface of both lakes as I walked passed. Fishing seemed like it would have been easy, but I had to get over the pass and make miles today.

Upper Rae Lake


Looking up at Glenn Pass
From camp I was just over 2 miles and 1,200 feet of elevation gain to make Glenn Pass, The pass itself was easy to spot from below, which was both good and bad. Good because you knew where you're going, bad because you could see how much of it was left to go. From the base of the last big push to the pass it took me 38 minutes, I beat my prediction time by 22 minutes. I must be getting stronger, though I often times do you not feel as if I am. Two hours and thirty minutes from camp to summit. I know, very slow for two miles, but at least I made it. Glenn Pass is very cool because once you top out you have a narrow ridge walk to its exit. The ridge was only 15 to 20 feet wide, which made for an airy traverse.

Glenn Pass

The descent off of Glenn Pass turned into another long downhill. Right now I can't recall the scenery as I was focused on making miles. Not a good thing I know. The trail dropped about 2,500 feet in four miles to Bubbs Creek Trail. Unfortunately not the one we were heading for. From there the trail climbed a little into Vidette Meadow. This area stuck in my mind as having bear problems last year so I kept my eyes open as I passed through. It did not meet my idea of a meadow, as it was not a large open field as I expected, but rather a broad flat forested area. I took an hour break, relaxing next to stream with my head propped up on the log for a pillow. The rest helped some, but I still was feeling tired in the legs and in the mind as well.

Shortly after leaving my break I ran into James who was also taking a break. He figured Z must have missed him and continue on ahead. We pushed off together to see if we could find him. James leading the way, with my eyes locked on his heels, trying to keep up as usual. After 25 minutes or so I dropped off his pace and continued on at my own. He had mentioned that he had talked to a couple on the pass from Florida who said that our intended campsite was just a rocky outcropping and that it would better to stay at the last site at tree line. So I thought that was our new plan.

James and Z leading the charge!
When I made to this site I was beat so I sat next to the stream relaxed a little and cameled up on some water. A nearby camper pointed out James and Z to me, 100 yards ahead. They were slinging on their packs as I arrived. I asked what the plan was and they said pushing ahead. This surprised me as it look liked some weather was blowing in. However, I figured I'd follow them up to a higher campsite, as they are good guys and I enjoy their company in camp. Z kept us entertained, and our mind off the climb, for almost an hour playing a rhyming game. Even though our pace had slowed, the game helped the time go faster.


Eventually I learned we are not going to camp at the upper site, but were going to push on over our second pass of the day, Forester Pass, the Big Daddy. This is when I began to think that I should listen to the old hiking saying “hike your own hike”. I was not sure I that had the legs, or willpower to make it up. But Z said it was too late to turn back now. So I trudged on behind them both.
Weather on the horizon


The first part of the ascent works its way up to a ridge on longer switchbacks before delivering you to a final section directly below the pass. From here the trail begins a series of tighter and tighter switchbacks before you crest out at the top of the pass. I made it! I could not believe it. With the second pass of the day I became the “hiker man”!

Reaching the pass I quickly dropped my pack and scrambled about 15 feet up the right side, from our perspective, of the pass so I could try to get a cell signal. It was such a relief to here's Karen's voice and Cade’s in the background. Suddenly everything was alright and I will begin. My body relaxed, I no longer felt tired. Life is good! I was able to text them photo of me from the pass, and I got one back from them, which was the greatest gift ever! Z used my phone to call home as well. No luck getting hold his wife but he was able to leave a message. James had already started down before we reached the pass so no call for him unfortunately.
 
Z taking a break before the final push up to Forester Pass
The rock work along the side of the trail on the way down the pass was amazing. I can hardly imagine all the work that went to the section the trail to make it possible. As we neared the bottom James was down there and said there was no camping so he was moving on. When we arrived we
We have a signal!
found several campsites right next to the trail and wondered why James has continued on. But once again we trudged onward and downward after him. The phone call give me a partial second wind so I did not mine. Thirty minutes later though I began to find all sorts of sites where I could set up my single tent. I think Z was beginning to think the same thing as well. He picked up his pace try to catch James. Eventually I saw that he had caught him as James rested on a rock. I slowed my pace a given time to have a “discussion” without me present. When I got there I could feel a little tension in the air. It had been a looooong day and we are all tired.

James felt that he had to move on to a lower rate elevation or he would be too cold for the night, as we were still 11,500 feet or so. Z just want to be done for the day and take a lake bath! I thought that I would like to get a little lower as well.  Z stayed where we were and James and I moved done. He quickly outpaced me as he raced to make it to the Shepherds Pass Trail. I just want to a place with a little more coverage and wind blockage. I found it 45 minutes later in the first stand of trees below the pass. I saw two other guys camped in here and found the spot a couple hundred yards later. It is a good spot.

Amazing rock work on the trail!


I ate entire pot of rot rice and mixed veggies for dinner, and putting up camp as it rehydrated. After dinner I got into the tent and quickly passed out, exhauster from two big days in a row. 






Monday, January 19, 2015

With a Little Help From My Friends

Friday, July 25
Day 13
South Fork Kings River to Middle Rae Lakes
17.9 miles

Inspiration comes from others, but motivation comes from within.”

A big miles day. I can't believe I made it all the way to Middle Rae Lake. I did not think I had it in me! I probably would not have if it hadn't been for James and Z's encouragement. I left camp just after 6 a.m. and said goodbye to Bob and Lee. I passed by just as James was waking up. The climb up to Pinchot Pass was a two-parter. The first climbed up about 1100 feet to Lake Marjorie. I made steady progress and made the 3.3 miles by 8 a.m. I took a little break at the small lake before Marjorie to fuel up on GORP and loaded up my water bottle. From the lake it was another 1.8 miles and 900 feet elevation game to the pass. Continued to make steady progress and I reached the pass a little after 9:30 a.m. It was nice to get todays pass out of the way so early. There were a few of us at the pass, including a family of four with two kids under 14. It was really cool to see them out here with their kids. The wind had been blowing all morning, and continued to blow throughout the day.




James had talk to someone on the pass who said the winds and the particular cloud type meant a change in the weather was on the way. We are really hoping that does not mean rain, as we have Forster Pass, the highest of all the passes, in two days.  Leaving the summit I started a very long downhill section.  I lost 3,500 feet of elevation over 7 miles. The descent off the pass lead me to a wide-open basin area. When that dead ended I turned west at the Sawmill Pass Trail Junction and continue down, following along the sides of Wood's Creek. This section remind me a little of the stretch along the San Joaquin River. I played tag with the family from the Pass and another couple of hikers that I had also met up there, as we each took breaks different spots on the way down. The descent became very monotonous, and I was ready to get it over with. Near the end I caught up with James and Z on a break, then joined them on the remainder of the descent. I did my best to keep up with them as always.





The bottom of the descent brought us to another landmark of the trail, the Woods Creek suspension
bridge. One at a time we crossed our way over the bridge. I've videotaped as I crossed it.  I was surprised by how much sway there was in it, from left to right. I also had to keep an eye open for missing planks. We all made it across with no problems. From the bridge we began to climb again. James and Z set the goal of Middle Rae Lake and I was now determined to make it there with them as well. I thought the lake would be good set location for an early run up Glenn Pass tomorrow.


I fell line behind James, who was following Z. I did my best to hang onto their train. It was like a pace line in cycling. The first 20 minutes all I saw was the back of James’ shoes, as I tried to match their pace. We switched leads several times, and I managed to keep the pace when I was out front.  Somewhere before Baxter Pass Trail I pulled ahead of Z, as he was slowing. I found out later that once he rejoined James he stopped to take a quick power nap. On my own I pushed past Dollar, Arrowhead and Lower Rae Lakes. Just after coming to Middle Rae Lake I decided to take a rest stop and wait for the James and Z so I could share camp with them.


Z took a quick dip in the lake while James and I pushed on another 200 yards to set up camp. First thing we did was to take a quick dip as well, to wash off the dust, grime and sweat. It was chilly but I felt much better afterwards. I had a nice evening chatting with those two. I will try to push on with them tomorrow to Budds Creek. It should be another day like today, of up down up down, again but only about 13 miles.


I figure I've climbed about a total of 3500 feet today. I was happy how I held up. Hope I can do it again tomorrow!