Time to Pass

Thursday, July 24

Day 12

Deer Meadow to South Fork of Kings River

13.4 miles

"May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds."

~ Edward Abbey

Midmorning -

The Golden Staircase

I'm sitting here soaking in the sun on top of Mather pass, 12,100 feet. This morning has been one of climbing. I broke camp just after six and had about a 40 minute walk to the base of the Golden Staircase. Then the climb began! The trail first casually climbed through gardens of ferns which were beautiful. The second section was narrow with tight switchbacks, then another long switchback, before what I thought was the final tight section with large tree at the top. But no, it was a false summit. Damn! The actual finish to the climb was only a short distance beyond the tree. But still, damn the false summit!  Overall the Golden Staircase was not as bad as other’s and the guides made it out to be.  Like everything else, one step at a time, and you will get up it.

The trail skirted the edge of Lower Palisade Lake. The fish were rising all over, but I did not stop.  Should have!  The trail soon left the lake’s edge and moved higher in the rocks above. The trail traversed high above Lower Palisade Lake and bypassed Upper Palisade Lake, which I could see a quarter-mile below me. I stopped to fill up on a liter of water above the lake and then began the climb to Mather Pass at 11:15. I was a little worried because I have been feeling the altitude a little since the lower Lake, sluggish legs. But the break revived them and I had no problems on the way the climb. As always I kept an eye on my heart rate; stopped when I need rest and made the top by 12:45. I passed a couple crews from the CCC, California Conservation Corp, doing trail work. I made sure to personally thank each one of them for making my hike possible.

Evening -

The hike down from Mather Pass was easy. I think this is going to be the theme for the next few days. Climb high in the morning, then a long downhill after the pass. From Mather Pass the trail went through a series of tight switchbacks that were on top of each other, for a half to three quarters of mile. Then it leveled off to a gently sloping descent. Once reaching the upper basin area, which reminded me of a moon scape, I had a little over a 5 mile descent to camp, which I think is at the South Fork of Kings River Ford or just before. I am camped here at the first of two fords, with Lee from Oregon and Bob from California. The three of us played leapfrog together on the way down from the pass and they were happy to let me join them in their camp tonight.  Turns out that Bob is a teacher in the L.A. area, so we talked shop a little. Same problems as there is at home. Comforting and worrisome all at the same time.

Looking down the "back side of  Mather Pass

Looking back up at Mather Pass

Lee (l) and Bob (r) destressing after a day on the trail

 I saw James and Z walk by as I was eating dinner, and they set up nearby. After dinner I went over and chatted and caught up with him a little while. James’ calf was causing trouble all day today so we shared our miseries. Looks like we are now on a similar schedule so hopefully I can keep up with their daily mileage and share some camps with them over the next few days.

Z (Zohar) and I hanging out with our other hiking buddies

Physically a good day after I got my leg to stop aching this morning.  More pain from my right Achilles this morning, but luckily not as bad as yesterday morning.  By the time I got here tonight I was ready to camp.  My legs are feeling well worn out.  Emotionally my worst day on the trail! The entire decent off the pass I was obsessing over what if something happened to Cade and I am not there. These thoughts had me in tears several times. It also has me pushing hard to finish early. My hope is that I can get a cell signal up on Pinchot Pass tomorrow, but I doubt it. I really need to hear that he and everyone else is okay. It makes me feel so irresponsible for being out here, I know that he is most likely fine since he is with three of the four people who love him the most in this world. But I know things happen, hopefully just nothing bad happens to him while I am gone.

I have decided to try to summit Whitney in four days. I know I am pushing my pace but until I can talk to Karen and make sure all is well I know I will feel the need to make miles. This will put me down in Lone Pine sometime Monday. If this is the case hopefully I can get my plane ticket moved without too much cost, or at least cheaper than three additional nights in a hotel. I hate to feel like I am rushing it, but my family is my priority. Hopefully I get a signal on Pinchot tomorrow and put my fears to rest.