Time to Pass

Thursday, July 24

Day 12

Deer Meadow to South Fork of Kings River

13.4 miles

"May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds."

~ Edward Abbey

Midmorning -

The Golden Staircase

I'm sitting here soaking in the sun on top of Mather pass, 12,100 feet. This morning has been one of climbing. I broke camp just after six and had about a 40 minute walk to the base of the Golden Staircase. Then the climb began! The trail first casually climbed through gardens of ferns which were beautiful. The second section was narrow with tight switchbacks, then another long switchback, before what I thought was the final tight section with large tree at the top. But no, it was a false summit. Damn! The actual finish to the climb was only a short distance beyond the tree. But still, damn the false summit!  Overall the Golden Staircase was not as bad as other’s and the guides made it out to be.  Like everything else, one step at a time, and you will get up it.

The trail skirted the edge of Lower Palisade Lake. The fish were rising all over, but I did not stop.  Should have!  The trail soon left the lake’s edge and moved higher in the rocks above. The trail traversed high above Lower Palisade Lake and bypassed Upper Palisade Lake, which I could see a quarter-mile below me. I stopped to fill up on a liter of water above the lake and then began the climb to Mather Pass at 11:15. I was a little worried because I have been feeling the altitude a little since the lower Lake, sluggish legs. But the break revived them and I had no problems on the way the climb. As always I kept an eye on my heart rate; stopped when I need rest and made the top by 12:45. I passed a couple crews from the CCC, California Conservation Corp, doing trail work. I made sure to personally thank each one of them for making my hike possible.

Evening -

The hike down from Mather Pass was easy. I think this is going to be the theme for the next few days. Climb high in the morning, then a long downhill after the pass. From Mather Pass the trail went through a series of tight switchbacks that were on top of each other, for a half to three quarters of mile. Then it leveled off to a gently sloping descent. Once reaching the upper basin area, which reminded me of a moon scape, I had a little over a 5 mile descent to camp, which I think is at the South Fork of Kings River Ford or just before. I am camped here at the first of two fords, with Lee from Oregon and Bob from California. The three of us played leapfrog together on the way down from the pass and they were happy to let me join them in their camp tonight.  Turns out that Bob is a teacher in the L.A. area, so we talked shop a little. Same problems as there is at home. Comforting and worrisome all at the same time.

Looking down the "back side of  Mather Pass

Looking back up at Mather Pass

Lee (l) and Bob (r) destressing after a day on the trail

 I saw James and Z walk by as I was eating dinner, and they set up nearby. After dinner I went over and chatted and caught up with him a little while. James’ calf was causing trouble all day today so we shared our miseries. Looks like we are now on a similar schedule so hopefully I can keep up with their daily mileage and share some camps with them over the next few days.

Z (Zohar) and I hanging out with our other hiking buddies

Physically a good day after I got my leg to stop aching this morning.  More pain from my right Achilles this morning, but luckily not as bad as yesterday morning.  By the time I got here tonight I was ready to camp.  My legs are feeling well worn out.  Emotionally my worst day on the trail! The entire decent off the pass I was obsessing over what if something happened to Cade and I am not there. These thoughts had me in tears several times. It also has me pushing hard to finish early. My hope is that I can get a cell signal up on Pinchot Pass tomorrow, but I doubt it. I really need to hear that he and everyone else is okay. It makes me feel so irresponsible for being out here, I know that he is most likely fine since he is with three of the four people who love him the most in this world. But I know things happen, hopefully just nothing bad happens to him while I am gone.

I have decided to try to summit Whitney in four days. I know I am pushing my pace but until I can talk to Karen and make sure all is well I know I will feel the need to make miles. This will put me down in Lone Pine sometime Monday. If this is the case hopefully I can get my plane ticket moved without too much cost, or at least cheaper than three additional nights in a hotel. I hate to feel like I am rushing it, but my family is my priority. Hopefully I get a signal on Pinchot tomorrow and put my fears to rest.

A MIle, Mile and a Half, One Step at a Time

Wednesday, July 23

Day 11

Muir Pass to Deer Meadow

15.4 miles

"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go." 

-- T.S. Eliot

Afternoon break -

Last night was rough! At first I could not fall asleep, then once I finally did Bob, who was sharing the hut with me, turned out to be the loudest snorer that I have ever heard! And he snored all night long! Even worse, the acoustics of the hut amplified it. I have no idea how much actual sleep I got. At least the hut kept me fairly warm and the wind out last night.

Looking back towards Muir Pass

I started moving about 5:30 a.m. was on the trail by six. For the first three hours today I was sure that my trip would be over at Kearsarge Pass. I could barely shuffle my feet along because my right Achilles tendon was so tight and painful. The downhill was awful on me! I do not think I was even moving along going 1 mph. Finally at 9 a.m. I stopped for a breakfast break: Pop tarts and vitamin I, and a liter of Gatorade. I also stretched my right Achilles tendon and it actually loosened up. Soon after I started walking again I was back to my normal pace. But the pain in the morning really had me doubting if I was going to be able to finish his trip. It really scared me! It was easy to see how one little thing could easily derail my trip. The highlight of the morning was coming to monster rock. I had forgotten all about it. So stumbling upon it put a smile on my face. Of course I had to take my picture with me and its jaws. I was happy on how it came out. While I was there a deer passed between me and the monster.  Luckily it was not hungry today and the deer made it safely passed.

Shortly after passing the monster I finally got off the descent into the valley. I made it to the Le Conte Ranger Station just before noon, where I decided to rest and have lunch. As I write I am sitting along the creek watching the water flow under the bridge. I am hoping the push on another 7 to 8 miles to Deer Meadow for tonight.

Evening -

I made it into camp around Deer Meadow just after 4 o'clock. 15.4 miles today, mostly downhill. I find it hard to believe that I did that long day. I never imagined I would make it this far at 7 a.m. this morning. The right Achilles is still tight and sore but nowhere close to what it was this morning. I hope I did not get a repeat performance tomorrow morning. I will have to stretch really good tonight and hope I can prevent the pain again tomorrow.

The walk to camp from Le Conte Bridge was easy. The last 3 miles where generally uphill, but very gentle. The trail turn sharply east at the Middle Fork Trail, beginning the slight uphill section (the only uphill today). My original goal was Grouse Meadow, but since I did Muir Pass last night, I figured I'd push on to set me up better for the Golden Staircase tomorrow. I figure it is about a “mile, mile and a half” from camp. The staircase was the last section of the trail and completed. On the map it looks like a lot of switchbacks, short ones. I appears to gain about 1600 feet of elevation in a little over 2 miles. It should be fun! Hopefully I can get it over before the sun is beating down on it. I believe it is west facing, so that should not be too big of a problem. I am all alone in camp so far. I was hoping to run into Peter and Carter camped along here but did not see them. Wonder if they did the Staircase today?

 The original plan for tomorrow was to go up to upper Palisade Lake tomorrow, but that will only be a 5 mile day. Depending on the leg is feeling I could push on and up over Mather Pass. I will play it by ear as always.

A beautiful evening here! Very peaceful. The sound of running water to my left, birds to my right. Warm sun shiny down on my legs. Perfect end to the day that started off so bad.

A Dream Come True

Tuesday, July 22

Day 10

Evolution Creek Crossing to Muir Pass Hut

13.6 miles

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

 – Mark Twain

Midday break -

I finally made it to North Evolution Lake!  The dream has come true. I took it nice and slow in camp

this morning. I gave the tent some time to dry in the morning sun. There is no need to rush as I'm not planning to make it over me your pass today. Left camp at 8 a.m. the latest of the trip so far. Nice! The first 3 1/2 miles today stayed down in the valley and went through Evolution, McClure and Colby metals. I stopped and checked out the McClure ranger station. No one home. It was a very comfortable looking cabin. A great place to spend the summer! From Colby Meadow the trail climbs 1100 feet up to North Evolution Lake. I rested a stream crossing before the start of the climb and had a quick snack. Jessie and Avery arrived just as I was leaving. As usual they caught up and passed me about 10 minutes later.

The climb up to the lakes was a tough one for me today. My legs are feeling tired and the Achilles tendon in my right leg is tight and sore, but going uphill did help stretch it out some. I hope this does not become a nagging problem. I met back up with Z as I approached the Lake. He and James had zeroed just across the Piute Pass Bridge yesterday, and left a little after 2 a.m. this morning to get here.

I have been laying back watching the clouds disappear above me. I do not recall ever seeing the clouds disappear before but it is really neat to watch!  I am debating whether my next move will be to stay here, to go up to Sapphire or Wanda Lakes or go up to Muir Pass and stealth camp at the hut. I need to work out a mileage plan then I will decide. Right now I'm very content to sit on the rocks, beneath the warm hot sun and be bathed by a gentle wind. I have waited so long to be in this exact spot!

"North" Evolution Lake

Evening -

Relaxing at Wanda Lake

About 2 o'clock I decided to head on. I talked to James before leaving. My goal was to get the Wanda Lake about 3 miles away from North Evolution Lake to set me up for an early morning ascent up to Muir Pass.  It took me about two hours to make it up to Wanda Lake. Not too difficult, just feeling tired today. I almost stopped one lake short, but ran the three guys camping there and asked them if they thought it was Wanda, they said they did not think so. Checking elevation on my watch I concurred and continued to move onwards. A short time later I reached the actual Wanda Lake.

I was hoping, but doubtful to find Peter and Carter camped at the lake. But no luck. I talked to one guy camped there, but he had not seen them. I'm guessing they got up here early enough to push on up and over the past. I found a flat area big enough to set up my tent and sat down to rest. It was a nice spot just off the right side of the trail. The only problem was that the wind was blowing straight into it right off the lake, ensuring a cold night.

The final push up to Muir Pass

A short time after finding the spot I met a guy from San Diego who had just descended from the pass and stopped to talk and stretch out. He was also carrying a Tenkara rod, the first other person I had met on this with one besides myself. We talked fishing for little while and our destinations for the night. He said that I should go stay up at the hut. I told him that it had been on my mind, but did not know If I had it in me to push on that far today.  He told me that it was mostly flat, until the final push. As he moved on his way I decide to go for it. It was less than 2 miles and 500 feet of elevation gain. Even with tired legs I was able to make it up there in just an hour.

With a happy heart I checked off another major landmark on the JMT. I'm really not supposed to overnight here, but I'm going to and hope I do not get caught by any park person out here. It is almost 7 p.m. now so I am hoping I am safe. The hut is made out of rock, and is circular in shape. Probably 30 foot in diameter. The ceiling is a cone shape, with the rocks getting closer with each layer starting at the height of about 7feet. There is a fireplace which has been bricked up to prevent use. A plaque over it says it was built in 1930 in honor of John Muir, and is intended to shelter hikers doing foul weather but is not for overnight stay. Opps!

I cooked a Mountain House skillet breakfast for dinner but could barely eat half of it. I tried to stuff a second burrito into me but I could not do it. After dinner I took some time to sort through my food. I do not have as much as I thought. I should just be able to make it up and down Mt. Whitney. I hope!

While North Evolution Lake today I made a new schedule. My plan now is to summit Mt. Whitney on Wednesday, July 29th and then head out to civilization. I think I can make it work. So here's to a great night at. Muir Hut! After dinner I was joined by another hiker from the San Francisco area who is going to stay up here with me for the night. So now we can both get in trouble.

"South" Evolution Lake

The Promised Land

Monday, July 21
Day 9
Sallie Keys Lakes to just passed Evolution Creek Crossing
13.3 miles
 

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” 

― Ernest Hemingway

 All that really matters about today is that I am now in the Evolution Valley area. After dreaming of this place for three years I am finally here! I am camped just a little over quarter mile from the crossing of Evolution Creek. Dreams do come true!
 

The first goal today was to get into Muir Trail Ranch for a resupply. I left camp around 6:20 AM. It was all easy downhill into MTR. My feet were in pain due to the blisters as I began this morning but it quickly subsided as I warmed by body up. I arrived at the ranch a little after 9 AM.  I found the staff to be very nice, especially the girl working in the “bucket building”. I heard rumblings from a few other hikers about this and that in regards to MTR. I think you need to know, before going into MTR, that the only thing that they do for backpackers is resupply, including a small store, everything else there is for the guest. The staff quickly got my bucket for me, and I began the task of sorting it all out.

 The first thing I did was to throw out my two Moroccan Delight dinners, and pick up a bag of Ramen and some instant rice and dehydrated veggies to replace them. I sorted through my food trying to pair it down as much as possible, so I could fit in as much as possible into my bear canister. The hiker hunger has not set in yet, I am hoping it will not. I dropped down to three snacks per day. I do think I ended up bringing one too many dinners. What I did not do was to actually re-plan on my remaining days which I really needed it to.  I also got a quick charge on two camera batteries. Not long enough to fully charge either one though, because the first one is already down to half charge this evening. I may have to start rationing taking photos and videos in order to make it to the end. If worse comes to worse I have a day and a half charge left on my iPhone.

 

Not everything fit in my bear canister so I have a small bag that I will have to hang tonight. I am hoping that it will all be able to fit into my bear canister by tomorrow night. I left a lot of extra food in the hiker barrels once again. I had to leave behind my Rubbermaid bowl and cozy, due to lack of space. Also left behind the hat that I started off with, as the one I got a Reds I seem to like much better. I left the Ranch a little after noon, my original plan had me camping another 2 miles down the trail. Since it was still relatively early when I left I decided to try to make it to the bridge at Goddard Canyon Trail for the night.

 I almost got lost leaving the Ranch, as I thought I was on the wrong trail. I thought I should be more down in the valley following the river, rather than climbing away from the Ranch. Luckily Jesse and Avery came along and assured me that I was going the correct way. As a walked behind them I watched as the gap between us grew larger and larger and soon they are out of sight. Both of them are in their early 20s and both are strong hikers.

 I was having a hard time getting back in the hiker mode after leaving MTR. I was feeling low as I had sent Cade a postcard from the ranch, which got me thinking of him. I also felt like I was hiking really slow!  Actually I didn't feel really slow, but the time came and went as to when I thought I should be rejoin the JMT from the cut off trail.  At 1:30 I ran into a group of people at Piute Pass Bridge, which leads into Kings Canyon National Park. This made me feel better because the bridge is 2 miles past the cut off to rejoin the JMT.  It turns out that I was not so slow after all. I took a dip into the creek. Once you sat on the wet rocks at the rivers edge you had no choice but to slide in and as it was so slippery. I floated on my back for a minute then pulled myself out using holds on the rock. I dried off in the sun and had a snack as I chatted without 8 other hikers gathered here. Not craving food yet, but know that body needs energy so I shoveled it in anyways.

 I pushed on to the San Joaquin River Bridge where I took another 15 minute break or so. Peter’s wife Carter came along and said they were going to take a break at the base of the next climb, then push up it tonight rather than in the morning. Sounded like a good idea to me, but I thought I'd wait until I got the base to make my decision. I found Jesse and Avery with their camp set up just over the Goddard Canyon Bridge, at the base of the climb. I chatted with them for a while as I tried to make up my mind about camping or pushing on. Peter and Carter were already there resting. Since it was only 4:30ish I decided to press on and upwards with those two.

 Carter set a strong pace up 800 foot climb. I was surprised to able to keep up with them. I actually was feeling strong. Before I knew it we had topped out and within 10 minutes where the Evolution Creek Crossing.  I had the biggest smile on my face. This was it! The start of the place that I dreamed about for years. I quickly exchanged my shoes for Crocs and easily made the calf high crossing crossing. My spirits were higher than they had been I'll trip.

Peter and Carter leading the way to The Promised Land

Evolution Creek Crossing

 The three of us, along with another hiker named Ruby, camped about a quarter-mile down the trail

from the crossing, in a small opening. Ruby, another bay area lady was nice enough to allow us to join her here. She was pleasant to talk to and the four of us had a nice evening before turning in just before dark. I had to hang my extra food bag tonight and hope it is still there when I wake in the morning.
 

I think my plan is an easy 10 mile hike to Wanda Lake tomorrow. I plan on taking my time to fully absorb Evolution Valley.  Camping at Wanda Lake will leave me a 3 mile climb up to Muir Pass and the Muir Hut sitting at almost 12,000 feet to start the next day.

"I'd play at Sallie Lakes all day if I could..."

Sunday, July 20th

Day 8

Lake Addison trail to Sally keys Lakes

13.8 miles

“Mountains are cathedrals: grand and pure, the houses of my religion. I go to them as humans go to worship…From their lofty summits, I view my past, dream of the future, and with unusual acuity I am allowed to experience the present moment. My strength renewed, my vision cleared, in the mountains I celebrate creation. On each journey I am reborn.”

- Anatoli Boukreev

California may be in a drought, but the Sierras are doing fine. Rained most of the day. Luckily it only came down hard for a few short spurts. I had the full rain gear on for most of the day.

The climb up Bear Ridge was not as bad as I had allowed it to grow in my mind. I made the ascent without much concern, even though it was a steeper than the previous climbs Once I had made it up, the trail once again began the descend. Go figure! I ran into several hikers coming up from the side. The 1.7 mile stretch between Bear Creek Trail and Lake Italy seemed to take a very long. I began to wonder if I turned off the JMT somewhere. I was relieved when I finally came across a junction sign. From Lake Italy the trail climb once again towards Seldon Pass. Over 4 1/2 miles the trail gained another 1,500 feet of elevation.

By the time I reach Marie Lake, below Seldon Pass, I was in need of a good long break. I was beat, wet and tired. I sat down at the south end of the lake, close to the final push up to Seldon. As I ate my lunch, I saw a large dark clouds building behind the Pass. So much for a long break.  I quickly finished a tortilla with peanut butter, then packed up and started up the 400 or so feet of elevation gain to the Pass. I kept my eyes glued to the Pass looking for lightning. This fear, along with lunch gave my legs a second wind, and I was soon at the top of the narrow pass. With weather still a threat I quickly started down, as the wind and rain picked up once again. In short time I made it down to Hart Lake, which actually does look like a heart in fact, then continued down to Sallie Keys Lake.  I made camp around 4 PM. Rain accompanied me all away down the backside of Seldon Pass to the Lakes.

I found Jessie and Avery camped at the Lakes and camped nearby as I wanted/was in need of some company this evening. First thing I did was to set up the tent in case the rain decided to make another appearance. Afterwards I went fishing. I cut two golden trout. I finally got my fishing wish. They are beautiful species. I caught both of them on a Griffiths Nat, with a fair amount of work. The elk hair caddis we're not working tonight. I think they were actually feeding him very small bugs just below the surface.

My feet held up pretty good today. I got them wet at one creek that I had to ford. I will retape the toes in the morning, then will take a better look at them once I get to Muir Trail Ranch tomorrow. MTR should be an easy 5 to 6 mile downhill hike tomorrow. I hope not to spend more than three hours there tomorrow, as I want to make some miles afterwards. I have to remember to buy fuel there, as I ran out as I was cooking dinner tonight. I think I was lucky, rather than good timing. I also need to recharge to camera batteries. I hope to mail a box home with my battery pack, camera charger and iPod since my headphones broke last night.

I also really need to re-plan the rest of my trip to make sure I have enough supplies, (food to make it to Whitney). I think I am still a day ahead of my proposed schedule, which will allow me to drop some of the big mile days that I have planned for this next section. Sixteen mile days will really be pushing it, and I have several planned along with an 18 miler. Today should help make the trip more enjoyable, and not a death march.I

To climb, or not to climb? That is the question!

Saturday, July 16

Day 7, 1 week on the trail

Fish Creek Camp site to Lake Addison Trail Junction

"Those who contemplate the beauty of the Earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts"

~Rachel Carson

Another bad night of sleep. I kept waking up all night long. I finally woke up before 5 AM, but laid in my bag trying to stay warm until first light. Eventually I heard some of the other guys stirring and I quickly began to pack up. Hearing the others motivated me to get out of the bag I guess.

I hit the trail at about 6:20 AM. I had been fearing the 2000 foot climb up to Silver Pass all night, but to be honest it was not bad at all. I never felt like I was close to pushing my heart right into the” red zone.” Once again gentle grades all the way up. There are a couple lakes up top that would've been great for camping at.  As soon as I crested Silver Pass I began to descend the backside. After crossing the creek beneath a beautiful cascade, the trail dropped steeply. I was glad I did not have to come up this side. Larry and Tom passed me just before this point. I am a very slow hiker!

Currently I am in my tent at the Lake Edison Trail junction. I arrived here just as Tom and Larry were setting up the tents. I decided to take a break and have lunch, then to decide at 2:30 if I was going to tackle Bear Ridge or not today. Just before 2:30 drizzle started to come down, just about the time Jesse and Avery came in. Feeling a little chilled I decided to put up the tent for some protection from the rain. Twenty minutes later so the rain to seemed the stop and I have not heard any thunder and over half an hour. Part of me wants to pack up and take the challenge of Bear Ridge today. Someone I passed earlier today made it seem like one of the hardest climbs on the trail; lots of switchbacks. I am trying to decide if I will gain anything by tackling it today rather than tomorrow. Either way I am hoping to get to Sallie Keys Lakes tomorrow; either a 9 or a 13 mile day depending what I decide.

Evening –

I decided at I 5:00 that if I was not going to do the climb I should go fish. Why not? Working my way upstream from the bridge I managed to bring six or seven fish to hand, rainbows and browns. All but one were of a keepable size. The biggest fish of the day got off my line just as reached my feet. It look like a nice fish. Real nice! Still no golden trout yet. Really looking forward to catching one of those, they sound really pretty.  I fished for over an hour. When I get back to camp, Tom and Larry had moved their tents to a smoother, flatter area across the bridge. I decided not the move even though I am laying at a slight angle on my site.

The excitement of the evening was a bear in camp, or rather circling the camp. I saw people across the trail pointing and grabbing their cameras, I figured it was a bear. Five minutes later I went to put my bear canister away and a nearby hiker said “there is a bear.” I thought he meant across the way, but as I began to move forward he became more insistent about the bear.  When I looked up 20 yards away was a smallish, light brown bear. After somewhat recovering from the initial shock of seeing him so close, I did what I was supposed to do: yelled, shouted, waved my arms. The bear did what he was supposed to do, wondered away. An exciting and innocent meeting. This first encounter though had my heart racing. Hope I can sleep tonight and get no more fury visitors.

Feeling lonely tonight! I was really down for an hour or so, but after the bear incident I went to talk to couple hikers of across the trail from me. The simple act of conversation help to bring my spirits up. My eyes are dropping as I write this so I guess it's bedtime.

Seldon Pass